Sunday 30 December 2012

Sitting at the Circles

Crossroads are known as "Circles" here

They do not have traffic lights that work, but instead policemen direct the traffic.  Waiting to cross a circle can involve sitting in the car for about 7 minutes per traffic change (sometimes if you are unlucky that is twice)

while waiting there are of course hawkers and beggars.  The hawkers are trying to sell newspapers, magazines, books, plastic tupperware boxes, towels, seasonal fruit/veg (sweetcorn at the moment)


then there are the sticker kids - who say "please sir I am hungry" and try to persuade you to buy My Little Pony, or Doraemon stickers

last but by no means least are the beggars. They often have conditions/ diseases that you would not normally see in Europe.  How much of this is congenital, or how much is due to poor nutrition I would not like to guess. Regular conditions we see include

thin / missing arms
leprosy
blind
growths
skin diseases / burns
humpbacks
elderly

these people stand by the window and say "baas baksheesh, madam I am hungry, give me money" and they tap the the car door or window, and often peer in through the glass - demonstrating the misgrown limb by tapping it on the window.

I make eye contact and say a firm no and shake my head.  Sometimes the beggars continue for a minute or so which feels like a long time.

how people with young kids explain this I don't know.  I know for me it evokes mixed feelings.  Sometimes I want to give money, help, take them home and feed and clothe them.  Other times I feel that the repeated hitting of our car is a violation of my personal space. Mostly I feel very uncomfortable.

We don't give to beggars at lights, though there is evidently enough money to be made.  Sadly, as in many countries, there are racketeers/mafioso types behind this who take their share too. Islam is a religion which promotes giving alms to the poor so this will continue.  In the meantime we are keeping our eyes out for a charity that helps street kids / elderly etc as for us this is a better way to contribute.  So when we talk about problems with traffic in Dhaka, we are also talking about the problems of standstill in Dhaka, dealing this every time we leave the apartment is hard.

I haven't taken and won't take photos of the beggars, - but some images, and an interesting Bangladeshi point of view can be found at http://tearsofdhaka.blogspot.com/2011/03/dictionary-defines-1.html

Sunderbans

We went on a trip to the Sunderbans over Christmas.

A colleague was so nice to arrange it all for us, there were eleven of us: one single colleague, one couple, a family of five (adult children) and the teacher of the Dutch school. A nicely balanced group, as we say in Dutch 'gezellig'.

The Sunderbans is the biggest mangrove forest in the world and protected area. Only a handful of people are allowed to live there. There are a few men who collect honey there and there are some men who cut grass there. Cultivation is prohibited, but the struggle between men and nature is big. The main attraction is the peacefulness in the ever so crowded country. There are a few tigers, latest guess is about 200. The Sunderbans is one third in India and two thirds in Bangladesh.

Christmas eve we took the plane to Jessore, to go by mini-bus to Kulhna. In Kulhna we had to travel the last part by  'easy taxi'. The easy taxi is an electrical rikshaw, more comfortable because it is electrical and can't go super fast and you have a bit of legspace. See photo below.

The photos are not in chronological order, but that's not really relevant.

 Arty photo of tree roots

 Arty photo of the sunset in the ball on the tip of the boat.

 
 These barges transport the grass

Beach

 Spot the bird of prey.

Again, spot the bird of prey in the middle of the photo.


 Bird group cuddle.
Boat-train.

A few times we take a tour in a smaller canal by two smaller boats.

 Dear prints in the mud. It is rather sticky clay.

Kuhlna ferries. As you can see, there are public boats (very full) and private ones, and some in between.

 A typical boat, mostly used for fishing. Small with a half circle for shelter.

Funny looking star shaped fruit on a tree.



 These men work for one month in the grasslands to cut the grass which is transported by boat all over the country. They earn about 100 euro in this month, which is well paid for unskilled work.


 Sunset. The jetty brings you to a compound for the preservation people and visitors.

 Kingfisher (ijsvogel)

A typical view. Mud with roots sticking out for air. Rather dense forest.

Monkeys, the deer often follow them to eat the leaves they drop. Monkeys are fussy eaters and eat only the nice parts of the leaves and then drop them. As there is little growing on the ground, this is welcomed by the deer. Above all the monkey spot tigers earlier than deer.

 You can clearly see how high the water can get.



Fishermen preparing some sort of traps.

 Our protection, we feel much safer now with Rambo on our side with an antique gun.




 Our shadows, aren't we arty?



 The small boats used for docking and smaller canals.




TIGER, we saw one, rather unique. The guide spotted two in the last 10 years. Unfortunately he didn't hang around long.
This is the boat we were on. Upperdeck is open and therefore in December cold. Middle deck is where the cabins are about 12 of them with bunkbeds. Below deck a kitchen, staff quarters and dining/ communal area. Much warmer, so there is where we spend the evenings.



 Doesn't seem the best place to do the washing.


The spelling of the cabins was mostly wrong, ours was the only right one therefore a photos of Gerben's cabin.
Took me a while to notice the spelling.


We went back the same way we came; easy taxi, airport shuttle, plane, car home. It was a lovely trip, but we were glad to see our warm shower.

More photos on Facebook

Skyfall at Bashundhara City

Back at the beginning of November we were sitting in a traffic jam, and noticed a big advert for Skyfall at the the Dhaka cineplex.  What Dhaka cineplex I thought?

It turns out it is on the 8th floor of Bashundhara City - a mall with cinema / food hall / ice skating

We got there at 15.30 for a 16.10 showing of Skyfall - but it was sold out, so we had to buy tickets for the 19.05 show.  Luckily with 8 floors to browse round, we had plenty to look at.  The floors seem to be quite easy to negotiate, menswear floor, ladieswear floor, gold floor, shoes and pirated dvd/music floor.  Our favourite was of course the food mall.  We looked round a lot, but didn't really buy anything, since we didn't have our shopping attitude on..but we enjoyed looking, and of course watching the middle-class Dhaka-ites.




The food court had such delightful names as Fried King, Fried Hut, Luscious Pizza, Bangla Fried Chicken.  Most of the food seemed Indian rather than Bangladeshi, and most of the places seemed to be selling the same menus, and most of the food was ...fried!
 Chole batura and chicken curry (big deep fried bread, lentil curry)
 Masala dosa, + chicken curry (big thin mungbean flour pancake and lentil curry, chicken curry, coconut relish)
Inside the cinema

The cinema itself was comfortable and...well it was a cinema.  We were too late this time to book the Taka 275 premium tickets, but got the 225 regular seats instead (£1.75 /€ 2.10) which were fine.

Several things were of course different. Before the screening began, the national anthem was played, and we all stood up! There was an intermission (more snacking opportunities), and most oddly the film was stopped and an anti smoking message and advert played whenever a cigarette was smoked in the film.

Overall we really enjoyed ourselves.  Dinner and a movie for under €10 means Lon is a happy man! Oh and because we were later coming home, it only took 15 mins instead of the hour it took to get there, and the film was fun too!