My first visit to Burundi started off not so well. Or better said, did not start.
I was supposed to fly on Monday 12.30. So we went to the airport. A surprised custom officer told us to check with the office if there is a plane. So we went to check, no plane today, this was known for three days, why the travel agent gave us a ticket that morning was a puzzle to them as well. So back to the office.
Booked the plane for the next day, 15.45. So as good citizens we were there an hour early. It became clear quite quickly that the plane would not make it in time. First they told us 17.00, then 18.00. We asked, but were not allowed to leave the airport. Our colleague in Burundi then told us that the Bujumbura airport told them there would not be a plane. A fellow traveler, from a Dutch Non Governmental Organisation (NGO) known by my colleague, phoned his contact. Confusing messages; plane is in Goma, plane will go to Nairobi, plane is waiting for ministers to finish talks....
Just as we decided that we would leave if the plane was not there within half an hour, it arrived. So we left around 19.00. In the dark, so we did not see much on the way. The landing was not smooth either.
We had a lovely dinner on the hill with a good view. The hotel was a nice cozy place, run by an Indian man. The room were small, but clean, with big bathrooms. Unfortunately I got the worst room of all; close to the kitchen. It was probably the managers room, as there was a collection of odd things scattered around the room; a set of drills, some business cards, a light bolb, a broken remote control. This was not a problem, the problem was that the kitchen was making a lot of noise till after 12 and the cooks alarm was going of at 4 am. On top of that I had a fight with the airco, it was aimed right at the bed, creating a cold draft. Some sticky tape fixed this, not bad for a boy who hasn't been a scout or soldier.
Bujumbura is noticeably warmer than Kigali, so I did not wear my tie. We had a lot to do that day; meeting a few people, checking out the new office, looking for new office furniture....
In short the differences between Kigali and Bujumbura:
Buj is warmer, has more mosquito's and flies, more slum's, more people washing themselves in the gutters.
Buj has better tasting papayas and had mangos, not seen yet in Kigali.
Buj looks like Miami without colours, not that I've been in Miami. Another comparisment could be, like the sixties.
The roads are better in Kigali, Kigali is cleaner calmer, more relaxed.
In one word; Bujumbura is more Africa.
Anyway, back that night, again in the dark, so still no good view from the air ;(
Probably more news next time, as I should be going to Bujumbura regularly.
Lon Zomer and Hazel O'Dea - their life abroad
Thursday 27 September 2007
Wednesday 26 September 2007
....No work
What I’ve been doing with my time…well, I’ve been taking a daily swim of 30 mins plus mini sunbathe. I’ve located a yoga and a pilates class both of which I can (and have) attend twice a week.
Monday – Wednesday – Friday the cleaner comes – she is one of the two staff we will have to choose from that we are trialling for 6 weeks each. As we haven’t found somewhere yet to get another key for the apartment cut, I have to be there to let her in at 2.30 ish and hang round for 2 hours (or pop next door to Novotel to swim).
Along with this there are activities that the dutch partner group organise/host. Friday mornings is handicrafts, except for the last Friday of the month which is English language bookclub, and there are regular coffee mornings. Its actually quite good fun, though sounds terribly wifey, I’ve enjoyed talking to people from a variety of cultures/countries/backgrounds in a non- threatening environment, and I’ve quite enjoyed drawing too.
Obviously for me this isn’t going to be enough in the longer term, so I’ve been looking at other opportunities here in Kigali.
On Monday I went to look at the Marembo centre to see if I would be interested in giving English classes there on a voluntary basis. They give classes Monday – Wednesday – Friday
8-10 Starters
10-12 Intermediate
12-2 Advanced
I sat in (and helped teach) the Intermediate class – there were about 20 people ranging from 15 – 22 70% boys. Some were happy to talk (a lot) and others needed coaxing. The schoolroom is a corrugated iron shelter with 3 benches and a blackboard.
As there is no permanent English teacher they rely on volunteers, and they come when they can – some are in the country for 2 weeks, or two months but rarely longer term, so there is no continuity.
I think that I may end up volunteering here on and off, but not making a big commitment
http://www.ryico.org/marembo.html
Today I went to visit www.orphansofrwanda.org where I do imagine committing to. Their goals and ways of achieving them appeal to me, and it’s a small and dedicated team and they are keen to have me on board, and I have a draft scope of work already, including tutoring and mentoring with a view to formalising and expanding the mentoring programme.
I’ve also been looking at some distance learning courses, and will probably start a TEFL course soon (Teaching English as a Foreign Language).
Monday – Wednesday – Friday the cleaner comes – she is one of the two staff we will have to choose from that we are trialling for 6 weeks each. As we haven’t found somewhere yet to get another key for the apartment cut, I have to be there to let her in at 2.30 ish and hang round for 2 hours (or pop next door to Novotel to swim).
Along with this there are activities that the dutch partner group organise/host. Friday mornings is handicrafts, except for the last Friday of the month which is English language bookclub, and there are regular coffee mornings. Its actually quite good fun, though sounds terribly wifey, I’ve enjoyed talking to people from a variety of cultures/countries/backgrounds in a non- threatening environment, and I’ve quite enjoyed drawing too.
Obviously for me this isn’t going to be enough in the longer term, so I’ve been looking at other opportunities here in Kigali.
On Monday I went to look at the Marembo centre to see if I would be interested in giving English classes there on a voluntary basis. They give classes Monday – Wednesday – Friday
8-10 Starters
10-12 Intermediate
12-2 Advanced
I sat in (and helped teach) the Intermediate class – there were about 20 people ranging from 15 – 22 70% boys. Some were happy to talk (a lot) and others needed coaxing. The schoolroom is a corrugated iron shelter with 3 benches and a blackboard.
As there is no permanent English teacher they rely on volunteers, and they come when they can – some are in the country for 2 weeks, or two months but rarely longer term, so there is no continuity.
I think that I may end up volunteering here on and off, but not making a big commitment
http://www.ryico.org/marembo.html
Today I went to visit www.orphansofrwanda.org where I do imagine committing to. Their goals and ways of achieving them appeal to me, and it’s a small and dedicated team and they are keen to have me on board, and I have a draft scope of work already, including tutoring and mentoring with a view to formalising and expanding the mentoring programme.
I’ve also been looking at some distance learning courses, and will probably start a TEFL course soon (Teaching English as a Foreign Language).
Sunday 23 September 2007
Work
Work
By popular request hereby an attempt to explain what I actually do.
Burundi is a very poor country with a lot of problems still. The (new) minister has decided to put more focus on the so-called ‘fragile states’. This means that Burundi, like a few more countries that are on the brink of a major crisis, gets more money the next four years. A risky strategy, the money could help this country a lot, but government in these countries is often not perfect, which means a high risk that the money is wasted due to bad governance. In financial terms: High risk, high (possible) return.
Anyway, there are momentarily two men in Burundi talking to a lot of people, thinking up policies and getting a lot of proposals for help. If a project gets past them, my job is to check if the proposal is financially sound and sustainable. Of course if I have opinions outside of my expertise, I still ask questions. In a way, use common sense and make sure that the project is not total nonsense.
Furthermore I have to function as an intermediary between the office in Bujumbura and the embassy in Kigali. Most papers, contracts and so on, have to be signed by the ambassador. Bills are paid in Burundi, but the administration is in Kigali. It is my job to make sure every document is at the right place at the right time and that they are sign in time, and are put in the system.
So in practice; read some (financial) reports, put things in the computer system, shout at the computer, wait for the computer, try to get things out of the computer, have an obligatory break from the anti RSI programme, try again. Meanwhile trying to get a signature on contracts that had to be paid yesterday and were in limbo for three months.
Sounds busy, but I am sure that I will find a manageable system; at the moment I am trying to do too much at the same time.
Tomorrow I am off to Bujumbura, for two days. By air, the road is declared unsafe by the UN. The UN tends to be very careful, but we are rather safe than sorry. The flight takes a whole half hour, so about 1 millisecond between taking of and landing. I will report on my trip on this blog.
Lon
By popular request hereby an attempt to explain what I actually do.
Burundi is a very poor country with a lot of problems still. The (new) minister has decided to put more focus on the so-called ‘fragile states’. This means that Burundi, like a few more countries that are on the brink of a major crisis, gets more money the next four years. A risky strategy, the money could help this country a lot, but government in these countries is often not perfect, which means a high risk that the money is wasted due to bad governance. In financial terms: High risk, high (possible) return.
Anyway, there are momentarily two men in Burundi talking to a lot of people, thinking up policies and getting a lot of proposals for help. If a project gets past them, my job is to check if the proposal is financially sound and sustainable. Of course if I have opinions outside of my expertise, I still ask questions. In a way, use common sense and make sure that the project is not total nonsense.
Furthermore I have to function as an intermediary between the office in Bujumbura and the embassy in Kigali. Most papers, contracts and so on, have to be signed by the ambassador. Bills are paid in Burundi, but the administration is in Kigali. It is my job to make sure every document is at the right place at the right time and that they are sign in time, and are put in the system.
So in practice; read some (financial) reports, put things in the computer system, shout at the computer, wait for the computer, try to get things out of the computer, have an obligatory break from the anti RSI programme, try again. Meanwhile trying to get a signature on contracts that had to be paid yesterday and were in limbo for three months.
Sounds busy, but I am sure that I will find a manageable system; at the moment I am trying to do too much at the same time.
Tomorrow I am off to Bujumbura, for two days. By air, the road is declared unsafe by the UN. The UN tends to be very careful, but we are rather safe than sorry. The flight takes a whole half hour, so about 1 millisecond between taking of and landing. I will report on my trip on this blog.
Lon
Thursday 20 September 2007
Our new house
27 Avenue des Grands Lacs, Kigali
We will be moving in at the end of November / beginning December
It has upstairs
5 bedrooms - including large master with en suite in a "panic cage" (Americans lived here before)
and 3 bathrooms
Downstairs (slightly spiral)
Large living /dining room
Kitchen, storeroom and scullery
bathroom
large hallway
large study/office
Terrace -where we will mostly end up living
We are negotiating taking over some items (and the staff) from the current tenants, but definitely not the children! We are open for business for guests from early 2008 onwards, but will require a small amount of your luggage allowances!
Sunday 16 September 2007
Feeding time at the orphanage
On Wednesday morning I went along with a dutch lady to the orphanage run by The sisters of Charity (Mother Theresa). I was apprehensive to say the least, and in many ways rightly so - as it has affected me.
Volunteers are welcomed at 9 and 2 every day except Thursdays to assist with feeding. The rest of the time the nuns and lay sisters take care of the children. On Thursdays the medical staff / volunteers come - many of the children are HIV+, and many have some form of disability - but not all.
We went to help feed the 6-12 month olds - big enough to sit and stand up, but not to walk or feed self yet. Each child was clean and in clean (new) gender appropriate clothes (unusual according to Els - perhaps a VIP was expected). A big bowl of unappetising but nutritious porridge for all. I managed to feed 2 boys, one plump poor eater and a skinny boy who was like a baby bird - all eyes and open mouth. Most of the children remained in a cot, whilst being fed through the bars.
The orphanage was pretty clean - there was a distinct but not overwhelming nappy odour, but that is to be expected when you enter a room which has over 50 cots in it.
The nuns are able to offer these children shelter and food, but they are lacking in love and stimulation - but still it has to be better than the lives they would otherwise have.
Whether I will continue to volunteer here or not, I haven't yet decided. It would be difficult to not contribute, but is this the best way? All I know is that the faces of the two boys I spent time feeding and playing with will stay with me for a long time.
Volunteers are welcomed at 9 and 2 every day except Thursdays to assist with feeding. The rest of the time the nuns and lay sisters take care of the children. On Thursdays the medical staff / volunteers come - many of the children are HIV+, and many have some form of disability - but not all.
We went to help feed the 6-12 month olds - big enough to sit and stand up, but not to walk or feed self yet. Each child was clean and in clean (new) gender appropriate clothes (unusual according to Els - perhaps a VIP was expected). A big bowl of unappetising but nutritious porridge for all. I managed to feed 2 boys, one plump poor eater and a skinny boy who was like a baby bird - all eyes and open mouth. Most of the children remained in a cot, whilst being fed through the bars.
The orphanage was pretty clean - there was a distinct but not overwhelming nappy odour, but that is to be expected when you enter a room which has over 50 cots in it.
The nuns are able to offer these children shelter and food, but they are lacking in love and stimulation - but still it has to be better than the lives they would otherwise have.
Whether I will continue to volunteer here or not, I haven't yet decided. It would be difficult to not contribute, but is this the best way? All I know is that the faces of the two boys I spent time feeding and playing with will stay with me for a long time.
Memorial
As we have been here for three weeks now, we found it was time to go to the genocide memorial. Not fun, but has to be done. We first had to struggle to get there, the Kigali 20 km run was today. After a detour we found it, a nice modern building on the outskirts of town. The ground floor had a short history, colonilisation, ID cards with race stated on it, but also shocking facts like that there had been killings before, and they got away with it, and the fact that the international community did absolutely nothing. The had a couple of video's with people telling what the effect was on there day to day life ten years after. Upstairs they had pictures of children, with a few facts e.g. Peter, 3 years old, likes rice, favorite person is his sister, favorite toy is his red car, kill by machete in his mothers arms. What was also very good is that the had a section about the second world war and Bosnia, as if to say "you're not alone".
What happened here, is so far beyond understanding. How people manage to keep on living on a daily basis is incomprehensible.
What happened here, is so far beyond understanding. How people manage to keep on living on a daily basis is incomprehensible.
Excuse my french
Rwanda has three official languages: Kinyarwanda, French and English. More and more people are (trying to) speak English, specially now that they kicked the French out of the country.
In general I try in French first, to improve my French, mostly I have to switch to English if it get a bit more complicated. Saturday we were eating at a reasonably international place. So after I ate my disappointing hamburger and Haze ate her tasty meatballs, I asked (in English) for the bill: "Can I have the bill please". To both our total surprise the waiter answered "Sorry, I don't speak French" We were flabbergasted. Yeah, finally a sentence where I can use the word 'flabbergasted'.
In general I try in French first, to improve my French, mostly I have to switch to English if it get a bit more complicated. Saturday we were eating at a reasonably international place. So after I ate my disappointing hamburger and Haze ate her tasty meatballs, I asked (in English) for the bill: "Can I have the bill please". To both our total surprise the waiter answered "Sorry, I don't speak French" We were flabbergasted. Yeah, finally a sentence where I can use the word 'flabbergasted'.
Wednesday 12 September 2007
Transport in Kigali
Ever popular is walking
You might imagine given the hilly nature of the country that Rwandans would have calves like rugby players – but surprisingly not.
Local Minibuses which ply regular routes for the princely sum of 100Rwf per ride (= 9p or 13 eurocent)
These have the routes written on them and seat about 15 people. There are regular bus stops, where you wait, and buses drive past (if full) or stop and shout where they are going (which usually corresponds with what is written but not always)
Motor bike taxis
These also have certain territories written on the back of the drivers waistcoat. Taxi motors are green and yellow, and the helmets are green as well. I think they cost 200+ depending on distance travelled, but don’t know and am never likely to find out. We are advised not to use them on the basis that they are dangerous – we’ve seen lots of near misses, but that’s not the compelling reason. Helmets are compulsory – which is good for safety, but I really don’t fancy sticking my head in a very well used safety helmet in a warm country…..bleurgh
Inter town buses
Most of these are based just outside of the centre of Kigali, though there are more tour operators in the centre. Buses run to other major cities and towns hourly.
There are of course private taxis as well which start at 2000 (2.65 euro) and can be asked to wait or to hire for the day. The problem is more about communication. So and so’s house doesn’t really help, and the road names are pretty fluid, and the numbering is pretty non existent, so it’s a matter of describing a landmark in common and then where to go from there….
I got a local bus into town on my own for the first time yesterday, and did so again this morning. Pretty exciting stuff – we asked the deskclerk at the Novotel what to ask for, so now can ask for Mu muyji (centre) or villay (local pronunciation of French ville). Many of the embassy staff are so used to having a car that this seems like abnormal behaviour – and it’s a case of having to remember that in all our usual travels we don’t have access to a big 4x4 with cd plates – so why behave differently now? All the same, I haven’t yet come back from town by bus, as the bus station is a typically bustling, busy noisy affair. Watch this space.
You might imagine given the hilly nature of the country that Rwandans would have calves like rugby players – but surprisingly not.
Local Minibuses which ply regular routes for the princely sum of 100Rwf per ride (= 9p or 13 eurocent)
These have the routes written on them and seat about 15 people. There are regular bus stops, where you wait, and buses drive past (if full) or stop and shout where they are going (which usually corresponds with what is written but not always)
Motor bike taxis
These also have certain territories written on the back of the drivers waistcoat. Taxi motors are green and yellow, and the helmets are green as well. I think they cost 200+ depending on distance travelled, but don’t know and am never likely to find out. We are advised not to use them on the basis that they are dangerous – we’ve seen lots of near misses, but that’s not the compelling reason. Helmets are compulsory – which is good for safety, but I really don’t fancy sticking my head in a very well used safety helmet in a warm country…..bleurgh
Inter town buses
Most of these are based just outside of the centre of Kigali, though there are more tour operators in the centre. Buses run to other major cities and towns hourly.
There are of course private taxis as well which start at 2000 (2.65 euro) and can be asked to wait or to hire for the day. The problem is more about communication. So and so’s house doesn’t really help, and the road names are pretty fluid, and the numbering is pretty non existent, so it’s a matter of describing a landmark in common and then where to go from there….
I got a local bus into town on my own for the first time yesterday, and did so again this morning. Pretty exciting stuff – we asked the deskclerk at the Novotel what to ask for, so now can ask for Mu muyji (centre) or villay (local pronunciation of French ville). Many of the embassy staff are so used to having a car that this seems like abnormal behaviour – and it’s a case of having to remember that in all our usual travels we don’t have access to a big 4x4 with cd plates – so why behave differently now? All the same, I haven’t yet come back from town by bus, as the bus station is a typically bustling, busy noisy affair. Watch this space.
Monday 10 September 2007
(Home) sweet appartment
By request a photo tour of our temporary home. We are in C block of the KEA appartments (Kaciyru Executive Appartments) appartment C301 or C321 (both are on door!) on the second floor.
Apologies for the sideways piccies - I haven't worked out how to turn them on the mac with the software I have...
Upon entering we have a storage room (office) to the right and an open plan spacious living / dining room - with balcony and seating area.
From here we have a view onto a dirt road which is pretty busy with foot traffic, and kids who point and say muzungu - theres a stretch of grass which is popular for midday siestas and afternoon games of football, as well as the local church (red roof).
In the distance we can see the golf course, and a new surburban development on one of the hills.
A kitchen with balcony and store room (the kitchen is hand built with a solid cement foundation for the units, and unhygienic tiling on the top).
A snug WC (with handbasin which requires a leftward lean when seated)
A separate bathroom
2 spare single bedrooms, one used solely for ironing
An ensuite bedroom with balcony
and another small store room.
As mentioned in earlier post, all is new and appears in order, mosquito screens on windows etc, but closer inspection reveals badly applied grout, unfinished undersides, and paint and varnish on the floors / walls where it shouldn't be - you can see where the painter used a roller on the bathroom door - on the floor...oeps
Apologies for the sideways piccies - I haven't worked out how to turn them on the mac with the software I have...
Upon entering we have a storage room (office) to the right and an open plan spacious living / dining room - with balcony and seating area.
From here we have a view onto a dirt road which is pretty busy with foot traffic, and kids who point and say muzungu - theres a stretch of grass which is popular for midday siestas and afternoon games of football, as well as the local church (red roof).
In the distance we can see the golf course, and a new surburban development on one of the hills.
A kitchen with balcony and store room (the kitchen is hand built with a solid cement foundation for the units, and unhygienic tiling on the top).
A snug WC (with handbasin which requires a leftward lean when seated)
A separate bathroom
2 spare single bedrooms, one used solely for ironing
An ensuite bedroom with balcony
and another small store room.
As mentioned in earlier post, all is new and appears in order, mosquito screens on windows etc, but closer inspection reveals badly applied grout, unfinished undersides, and paint and varnish on the floors / walls where it shouldn't be - you can see where the painter used a roller on the bathroom door - on the floor...oeps
Sunday is church-day
The folk here in Rwanda are actively church going, and we are fortunate to overlook a local church, and get to hear the singing. On our drive round on Sunday we were able to see that Christianity is represented here in many guises from evangelists, to jehovahs witnesses, seventh day adventists and of course catholics.
Our drive round also took us to Nyamirambo - a lively district of Kigali which actually felt like Africa. Although the shops were closed as it was Sunday, there still was an element of character and unpredictability which the areas of Kigali we had seen before then lacked. I'm looking forward to going back another day. Lon of course on our drive decided to go slightly off the main road and ended up driving through unpaved dusty tracks until finally admitting that the short cut wasn't actually leading anywhere, I was glad we were in the embassies old 4x4 toyota truck which is virtually indestructible.
All our weekend driving is gradually paying off, so that we are beginning to get the hang of the lay of the land slowly but surely, and are developing our own descriptions of landmarks to navigate by, such as wedding roundabout, saucer roundabout, big roundabout etc etc
I can't believe that we have been here for two weeks already, its both a long time, and has flown by.
Our drive round also took us to Nyamirambo - a lively district of Kigali which actually felt like Africa. Although the shops were closed as it was Sunday, there still was an element of character and unpredictability which the areas of Kigali we had seen before then lacked. I'm looking forward to going back another day. Lon of course on our drive decided to go slightly off the main road and ended up driving through unpaved dusty tracks until finally admitting that the short cut wasn't actually leading anywhere, I was glad we were in the embassies old 4x4 toyota truck which is virtually indestructible.
All our weekend driving is gradually paying off, so that we are beginning to get the hang of the lay of the land slowly but surely, and are developing our own descriptions of landmarks to navigate by, such as wedding roundabout, saucer roundabout, big roundabout etc etc
I can't believe that we have been here for two weeks already, its both a long time, and has flown by.
Mosquito moves
The appartment has mosquito gauze on all the windows and balcony doors. The complex is new, so the gauze has no holes or tears and fits pretty well. However we are still plagued with mossies.
We know that the stairwell and lift are mossie-ridden, and try to enter and exit the appartment quickly, but this doesn't account for the 15-20 a day we are hunting down.
Closer inspection reveals a 1 cm gap under the front door and emergency exit, along with a grating above the front door which has no gauze.
The result of this is that Lon and I will be having a conversation, then Lon gazes off into the middle distance, leaps to the middle of the room and jumps clapping his hands, swears if he misses or shouts "yesss" if successful. Repeat. Repeat again. Repeat.
Our mosquito studies have led us to note the following phenomenon.
We know that the stairwell and lift are mossie-ridden, and try to enter and exit the appartment quickly, but this doesn't account for the 15-20 a day we are hunting down.
Closer inspection reveals a 1 cm gap under the front door and emergency exit, along with a grating above the front door which has no gauze.
The result of this is that Lon and I will be having a conversation, then Lon gazes off into the middle distance, leaps to the middle of the room and jumps clapping his hands, swears if he misses or shouts "yesss" if successful. Repeat. Repeat again. Repeat.
Our mosquito studies have led us to note the following phenomenon.
- Mossies are silent unless it is 2 am when they emit their distinctive nnnnnnnnnnoise.
- Mossies have klingon cloaking technology. Once they reach a distance of 1.5 m from the human trying to kill them they become invisible requiring the hunt to begin again later.
- Hazel is 30 x tastier than Lon (ratio of bites H:L)
Sunday 9 September 2007
Saturday is weddingday
Saturday 8 September 2007
Wanted to buy some bottles of coke/fanta/vitalo. So of to the recommended shop/wholesaler.
Tried to drive into the gate, but got stopped, you have to park outside the gate.
Some people shouting to the truck driver: 'bla bla bla MZUNGU bla bla bla' With our excellent knowledge of Kinyarwanda we were able to translate is as: 'Move the truck a bit, that stupid white man wants to park there.'
As there are several people hanging around, all staring at you, it is often hard to actually find the shop owner. In this case it was not so hard as there was one man behind a table with a cash register.
'We like to buy some drinks'
'Where are your empties?'
'We are new, we like to pay the deposit'
'You have to return your empty bottles'
'Yes, we understand, we do not have any, where do we start?'
'You can not buy without empty bottles, my boss says'
'Where is your boss'
'He is not here'
'When is he here?'
'He is not here'
So we leave empty handed.
We did some good shopping at one of the supermarkets. Drove up the wrong street, so had to drive around again to find the supermarket 'happy Rwanda'. Prices vary a lot in different supermarkets, so shopping around is necessary. Had a brilliant buffet lunch next to happy Rwanda. Found the supermarket we kept missing, close to a drinks shop that was willing and happy to sell us a crate of drinks. 24 bottles for 10.000 including bottle and crate deposit (13 Euro/9 GBP).
We had another drive around town. Via the golf course (yes, you read right) next to SOS childrens village, up the suburbia hill. Round the center and back again.
The roundabout near Novotel is the focalpoint for weddings. Saturday is weddingday. You drive to the roundabout. The first car is a pickup with several men standing on it one has a camera to record the second car (expensive) with the happy couple in it. You drive slowly, preferably in both lanes, or otherwise in the fast lane with your hazard lights flashing. At the roundabout you stop, doesn't really matter where and people cross the road without looking to the centre. In the centre pictures are taken. It is also possible to take pictures in front of the Novotel, or both locations.
We had a lot of fun driving around the roundabout a couple of times, Haze taking pictures, but it might be annoying if you live nearby and have to pass.
Wanted to buy some bottles of coke/fanta/vitalo. So of to the recommended shop/wholesaler.
Tried to drive into the gate, but got stopped, you have to park outside the gate.
Some people shouting to the truck driver: 'bla bla bla MZUNGU bla bla bla' With our excellent knowledge of Kinyarwanda we were able to translate is as: 'Move the truck a bit, that stupid white man wants to park there.'
As there are several people hanging around, all staring at you, it is often hard to actually find the shop owner. In this case it was not so hard as there was one man behind a table with a cash register.
'We like to buy some drinks'
'Where are your empties?'
'We are new, we like to pay the deposit'
'You have to return your empty bottles'
'Yes, we understand, we do not have any, where do we start?'
'You can not buy without empty bottles, my boss says'
'Where is your boss'
'He is not here'
'When is he here?'
'He is not here'
So we leave empty handed.
We did some good shopping at one of the supermarkets. Drove up the wrong street, so had to drive around again to find the supermarket 'happy Rwanda'. Prices vary a lot in different supermarkets, so shopping around is necessary. Had a brilliant buffet lunch next to happy Rwanda. Found the supermarket we kept missing, close to a drinks shop that was willing and happy to sell us a crate of drinks. 24 bottles for 10.000 including bottle and crate deposit (13 Euro/9 GBP).
We had another drive around town. Via the golf course (yes, you read right) next to SOS childrens village, up the suburbia hill. Round the center and back again.
The roundabout near Novotel is the focalpoint for weddings. Saturday is weddingday. You drive to the roundabout. The first car is a pickup with several men standing on it one has a camera to record the second car (expensive) with the happy couple in it. You drive slowly, preferably in both lanes, or otherwise in the fast lane with your hazard lights flashing. At the roundabout you stop, doesn't really matter where and people cross the road without looking to the centre. In the centre pictures are taken. It is also possible to take pictures in front of the Novotel, or both locations.
We had a lot of fun driving around the roundabout a couple of times, Haze taking pictures, but it might be annoying if you live nearby and have to pass.
Wednesday 5 September 2007
Neighbours are restless
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/6979375.stm
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/6978020.stm
but all serene here so far.
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/6978020.stm
but all serene here so far.
Tuesday 4 September 2007
vin de table
Lon rang on the way home from the office this evening -
"can I get anything?"
"yes please, a bottle of wine"
we open it to have with dinner (spaghetti bolognese)...
"mmm smells like port..."
"very sweet..."
the key word of course is ecclesiastiques
its communion wine...
we only managed to drink half the bottle!
"can I get anything?"
"yes please, a bottle of wine"
we open it to have with dinner (spaghetti bolognese)...
"mmm smells like port..."
"very sweet..."
the key word of course is ecclesiastiques
its communion wine...
we only managed to drink half the bottle!
Monday 3 September 2007
Setting up (temporary) home
We have moved into a furnished 3 bedroom apartment which of course is a huge improvement on the hotel in terms of space, privacy and ease.
We have a “fully equipped modern kitchen” consisting of 1 huge knife, a wooden spoon, 3 large serving spoons, a rusty tin opener, a chopping board which is 50cm x 80 cm (not kidding), 2 small saucepans with lids, one frying pan, a canteen of large cutlery, and 6 of each mugs (with lids), water glass, wine glass, plates, bowls, a cruet set, and a sugar bowl
We also have a coffee maker, toaster and microwave along with a 50-50 cooker – 2 gas rings, and 2 electric – in case we run out of either
Almost enough to get started with, but not quite
So we spent the weekend (and quite a lot of money relatively) buying staples like salt, pepper, oil, vinegar, rice, pasta, tinned tomatoes and also some extra kitchen equipment like a smaller knife, tea towels etc
Each trip out will now include tracking down items to improve our standard of temporary living … but this forms a problem, we already have all this stuff (double) in the Netherlands waiting to come here, and the quality of kitchen ware here is poor, and the prices are high – lots of things are imported from china, so they aren’t even good as keepsakes…in the meantime improvisation is the name of the game, and water bottles will be used to great effect – we have sugar and lentils in 2 already, and have cut a large one down to act as a washing up tidy, and a container for hot bleachy water when cleaning.
There is a cleaner that comes daily as part of the rent on the flat, but they do the basics (wcs and floors) and not well. I also heard an American complaining that lots had gone missing, which means locking everything up – which is possible since most rooms have a lock, and a lockable cupboard, but even the fridge has a lock which is worrying!
Fresh meat and vegetables are cheap and good quality, there is also quite a lot available frozen, but as it is all imported – also expensive – but if we feel a desperate urge for calamari or salmon steaks then we can get them.
Oddly chicken is in short supply. Previously in Africa, chicken was ubiquitous, if elderly and stringy...here it is difficult to get hold of, and allegedly tastes of fish having been fed on fishmeal.
We have a “fully equipped modern kitchen” consisting of 1 huge knife, a wooden spoon, 3 large serving spoons, a rusty tin opener, a chopping board which is 50cm x 80 cm (not kidding), 2 small saucepans with lids, one frying pan, a canteen of large cutlery, and 6 of each mugs (with lids), water glass, wine glass, plates, bowls, a cruet set, and a sugar bowl
We also have a coffee maker, toaster and microwave along with a 50-50 cooker – 2 gas rings, and 2 electric – in case we run out of either
Almost enough to get started with, but not quite
So we spent the weekend (and quite a lot of money relatively) buying staples like salt, pepper, oil, vinegar, rice, pasta, tinned tomatoes and also some extra kitchen equipment like a smaller knife, tea towels etc
Each trip out will now include tracking down items to improve our standard of temporary living … but this forms a problem, we already have all this stuff (double) in the Netherlands waiting to come here, and the quality of kitchen ware here is poor, and the prices are high – lots of things are imported from china, so they aren’t even good as keepsakes…in the meantime improvisation is the name of the game, and water bottles will be used to great effect – we have sugar and lentils in 2 already, and have cut a large one down to act as a washing up tidy, and a container for hot bleachy water when cleaning.
There is a cleaner that comes daily as part of the rent on the flat, but they do the basics (wcs and floors) and not well. I also heard an American complaining that lots had gone missing, which means locking everything up – which is possible since most rooms have a lock, and a lockable cupboard, but even the fridge has a lock which is worrying!
Fresh meat and vegetables are cheap and good quality, there is also quite a lot available frozen, but as it is all imported – also expensive – but if we feel a desperate urge for calamari or salmon steaks then we can get them.
Oddly chicken is in short supply. Previously in Africa, chicken was ubiquitous, if elderly and stringy...here it is difficult to get hold of, and allegedly tastes of fish having been fed on fishmeal.
The rains
have just started....
Don't know if this really is beginning of rainy season, if so it is very prompt as it should begin in September- in any case it was a strong short shower which ended after 20 mins.
Don't know if this really is beginning of rainy season, if so it is very prompt as it should begin in September- in any case it was a strong short shower which ended after 20 mins.
Dear blogger
Kigali is not what you think.
Roads are great, weather is brilliant.
The fun is in the small things. On the street there are boys wandering around with yellow shirts on and they carry what looks like a normal office phone. It turns out that you can make calls with them and just pay for the call, a very different interpretation of ‘mobile phone’.
Of course Africa needs a bit of a different mind set. Going out for a quick coffee is impossible. The quickest is probably half an hour. Checking out from the hotel took us nearly an hour. And when I asked why I had to pay for the room, when the embassy booked the room, they did not have a clue what I meant, even though we got the special rate that the embassy has. So they asked me where we lived, as we couldn’t answer that question, we just paid the bill and I will claim it at the embassy. Luckily the hotel does accept credit cards, even though that adds another 10-20 minutes to the whole procedure.
This weekend we had a car from the embassy. Friday night (night used loosely as it started at 17.00 and ended 21.00) we had a birthday party of two colleagues. From there we took over an embassy car from the temporary colleague who doesn’t need it in the weekend. He parked the car on a hill, so I had to reverse this huge Toyota pick up in the dark. When we finally moved forward it made a lot of noise and hardly went forward. So close to the residence of the American ambassador we stopped and found out it was in ‘low gear’. We could have chosen a better place to stop, but as mzungu (whitey) in a CD car, you can get away with almost anything. For example when you change money in the bank you get automatically pushed in front of the queue, whether you want or not. Differences between the ‘haves’ and ‘have-nots’ are big, and it takes a lot of getting used to having servants everywhere. The houses of ‘people like us’ all have guards, standard procedure is that you drive up to the gate and horn, the guard will then open the gate. As far as I’m aware houses don’t have house numbers, and street names are often not displayed, you just have to know where people live. Today (Sunday) we went to a childrens-party, every occasion is turned into a party here. The instructions where: A vague map with instructions “the third (green) gate on the left after the ‘Papyrus’”.
The public transport is much like elsewhere in Africa; minibuses with their routes painted on the front and back. In addition to that there are here also motorbikes with green helmets, one for the driver and one for the passenger. Needless to say these are a bit less safe than the car taxis. Saturday we went shopping for supplies for our apartment. To our own surprise we found the shopping centre someone recommended to us. It was clearly not for the lower class, therefore also a high rate of whites present. The coffee place had very good coffee and free internet if you bring your laptop, so half the tables where occupied with laptops. Internet is per definition slow here, but you get used to it.
Lon
Roads are great, weather is brilliant.
The fun is in the small things. On the street there are boys wandering around with yellow shirts on and they carry what looks like a normal office phone. It turns out that you can make calls with them and just pay for the call, a very different interpretation of ‘mobile phone’.
Of course Africa needs a bit of a different mind set. Going out for a quick coffee is impossible. The quickest is probably half an hour. Checking out from the hotel took us nearly an hour. And when I asked why I had to pay for the room, when the embassy booked the room, they did not have a clue what I meant, even though we got the special rate that the embassy has. So they asked me where we lived, as we couldn’t answer that question, we just paid the bill and I will claim it at the embassy. Luckily the hotel does accept credit cards, even though that adds another 10-20 minutes to the whole procedure.
This weekend we had a car from the embassy. Friday night (night used loosely as it started at 17.00 and ended 21.00) we had a birthday party of two colleagues. From there we took over an embassy car from the temporary colleague who doesn’t need it in the weekend. He parked the car on a hill, so I had to reverse this huge Toyota pick up in the dark. When we finally moved forward it made a lot of noise and hardly went forward. So close to the residence of the American ambassador we stopped and found out it was in ‘low gear’. We could have chosen a better place to stop, but as mzungu (whitey) in a CD car, you can get away with almost anything. For example when you change money in the bank you get automatically pushed in front of the queue, whether you want or not. Differences between the ‘haves’ and ‘have-nots’ are big, and it takes a lot of getting used to having servants everywhere. The houses of ‘people like us’ all have guards, standard procedure is that you drive up to the gate and horn, the guard will then open the gate. As far as I’m aware houses don’t have house numbers, and street names are often not displayed, you just have to know where people live. Today (Sunday) we went to a childrens-party, every occasion is turned into a party here. The instructions where: A vague map with instructions “the third (green) gate on the left after the ‘Papyrus’”.
The public transport is much like elsewhere in Africa; minibuses with their routes painted on the front and back. In addition to that there are here also motorbikes with green helmets, one for the driver and one for the passenger. Needless to say these are a bit less safe than the car taxis. Saturday we went shopping for supplies for our apartment. To our own surprise we found the shopping centre someone recommended to us. It was clearly not for the lower class, therefore also a high rate of whites present. The coffee place had very good coffee and free internet if you bring your laptop, so half the tables where occupied with laptops. Internet is per definition slow here, but you get used to it.
Lon
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