I went to prison

I went with two of my colleagues and the project manager of the ministry to see Rwandas top prison: Mpanga prison. The Netherlands is financing the build of the new part where the 'top dogs', who are now in Arusha or Sierra Leone, can be housed. This building has to meet international requirements and is relatively very spacious.

For those interested Mpanga is 1,5 hours drive from Kigali. In Nyanza you take a newly laid road a bit further et voila. The fairly big grounds is surrounded by a wall with barbed wire and watchtowers as you would expect. The grounds hold four main buildings: A building for men genocidairs, a womens prison, a building for 'normal' men prisoners (mostly rapists). This prison is meant to hold all prisoners who have a life sentence. We had a good look at the building in progress which is delayed due to the lengthy tender procedures in Rwanda. This building has two floors and in total 27 rooms, 20 square meters each with own toilet, shower and washbasin. Downstairs holds a kitchen and canteen and upstairs a TV room with kitchenette. The court is huge for only 27 prisoners. The will be let out to play on the soccer and/or basketball fields at separate times from the other prisoners.

The court yard for airing.

The project manager asked me what I thought of the difference between these prisoners, who probably have a better life than an average Rwandese, and other prisoners. I answered that I did agree with him it is not fair, however these are highly political cases.

The building in front is the kitchen, behind that the new building for 'VIP Prisoners'. Photo taken from the football field.

We got a tour around all the buildings. So we casually ask how many prisoners there are; 300, 400...? No, about 5000 Genocidairs and 6000 other, and I forget the number of women, less though. So back to the question, no the difference is not fair; 5000 people in a place not even double the size of the for 27!! We went into the genocidairs building, a square building, open courtyard in the middle, dormitories all around. I counted about 10 doors, therefor about 500 men sleeping together. We didn't look where they slept, but I have a feeling I don't want to. It was a bit weird. thousands of eyes staring at you, but in a peacefull and very passive way. A few things struck me and probably will stay with me. It was very quiet and did NOT smell. Most men were just hanging around, a few were playing a game, one drew my attention, he seemed to be spending a lot of time to put his rag on the right spot for drying, it was a ruglike thing badly patched and in my view not even useful as cleaning cloth, maybe it was more about his 'turf'. There seem to be a well working hyarchy system. Some men with yellow hats were in charge of the order, they kept a straight line in the middle for us to walk through.

The womens prison was much smaller. A lot of women were also working out on the field. When we came in the women were kindly asked all to go to the middle, and they did, again in a very peacefull and obidient way. It was a bit embarrassing. The gave use each a handmade bastket, at least they seem to keep themselves busy. All the doors of all buildings are just open, but I have a feeling if you step outside without permission you might be shot.

All prisoners have an orange suit and if they leave the prison for example for work in the field, they are obliged to wear it. Within the prison most wear something else, specially because they only got one orange suit, no more.

In short an interesting en memorable visit, but glad it took a few hours, couldn't stand spending days or years there.