Bobo - Degoudougou - Koudougou - Ouaga

Back to Bobo, and the finally checked in to the 2palmiers ! We visited the Museum of music, and tried to visit a gallery that was closed and explored the market.

fancy lunch in the cave saint germaine


Bobo also has roundabouts of note

Thoroughly enjoyed sitting with a cold beer after visiting the market, watching the world go by as the market began to close up for the day, watching a food seller opposite pack up her wagon, watching the man roasting meat, listening to music from a nearby clothing boutique (which felt so right for the time and place we went and asked what it was - Ivory Coast's Tiken Jah Fakoly African Revolution.

blurred action shot of chickens hanging from a truck (the truck was full of people standing / sitting on top of whatever the truck was full of)
Cotton - an important export crop - http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/shared/spl/hi/picture_gallery/06/africa_burkina_faso_cotton_farmer/html/1.stm



The next day back to Ouaga, but of course not the same route that we took coming.. instead we went via Degoudougou - the road was excellent - discovered that the Prado has an annoying beep when you hit 120km an hour, and a flashing light when you exceed it. On many of the roads we drove on the challenge is staying awake, as they are straight and flat and well maintained!

Then we reached Degoudougou - and a series of diversions that were mind boggling - there is a major road expansion project underway, but its currently a work in progress.

The road was a lot closer to the villages though




granaries? which look scarily like daleks to me..



chicken offering at the base of a tree which had been felled to make way for the road in progress

temporary bridge

the road from Degoudougou to Koudougou took longer than we had anticipated, so we were grumpy and tired, and just stopped briefly for lunch - I think we'll have to go back, its only an hour and a half away, and host Burkinas equivalent of the Edinburgh festival next month.


despite not celebrating halloween it's pumpkin time here too...

Banfora and Karfiguela falls

On Tuesday we wanted to stay the night at the 2Palmiers in Bobo - after visiting the
Musée Provincial du Houët (a small museum which was hosting a lecture that morning- so only one of its two rooms was open) we found out they were full (again) so we switched plans a little and drove onto Banfora about an hour away from Bobo.

The landscape became more lush, and we were surprised to see palms and sugar cane fields.

We checked in at the hotel - Canne a sucre (sugar cane) a really pleasant surprise with spacious clean rooms in a beautiful shaded garden - and great restaurant as we found out later.

Yummy Yassa chicken and riz sauce arachide (rice with peanut sauce which has the odd bit of meat and some vegetables in it) at the Calypso sealed the deal for us - we like Banfora!


sugar cane fields
irrigation on an industrial scale!

After lunch we went to find the Karfiguela falls - (cascades) - often, people hire a guide in town, but we are pig-headed and with the help of Lons trusty GPS and a lot of luck we drove through the fields and sugar canes for 30 odd minutes before finding the falls.

the falls
a termite hill near the falls

I would have to say that this was no Niagra, but was more enjoyable for the slight fear driving in the middle of the Burkinan countryside, and then the cool quiet of the forest walk to the falls than the water itself.
Dômes de Fabedougou - close to the falls, but we didn't make it in to see them close up as time was ticking on, and driving in the dark wasn't an option we wanted to take.

Away days - Ouaga to Bobo Dioulasso

Finally we have made it out of town, and drove from Ouaga to Bobo Dioulasso - or Bobo as it is known.

We had been warned that the road was potholed and bad for the first half of the 356 km journey. We were expecting potholes in the road - but what there were were slight tarmac imperfections which meant that we had to drive at 100km instead of 120! Our trips through east africa have obviously given us a different level of expectation...


Lunched in Boromo of spaghetti and sauce at a maquis (roadside pub)- we daren't yet try the whole fried chicken that was available at the bus station - and there was nowhere to sit with it....though it appeared that some of the other patrons at the maquis had brought theirs with..

Bobo is currently being renovated - seemingly a third of the streets in the city are being resurfaced or dug open for drainage works, making the city dustier than usual (I hope) and full of deep scary holes in the middle of the road.

We drove round exploring and orienting ourselves - it seems that Bobo has a lot in common with other second cities the world over, compared to the capital it seems a bit more laid back and less frantic, more at ease with itself as a city.

Impressive Sudanese style mosque in the centre

How's this for a train station?
though we didn't see the trains which run to Abidjan Ivory Coast we did hear them - I hope that they are no longer steam trains!!

We stayed at the Algouta since our first choice was booked up - a quiet out of the centre place which has seen better days, but cheap and cheerful..unlike the Auberge we were recommended which had 60 euro prison cells..

Dubious pasts

From the internet a story of the beginnings of the Tour du Faso

A Russian cycling lesson

But in 1987, the shock of the meeting was severe for national pride. Against a team of young riders neglected by the Soviet delegation heading to the World Junior champion­ships, the disappointment was huge and close to humiliation. Troubled by the succession of Russian victories, the host riders were even forced to use not very advisable means to boost national morale. During the final stage, Sayouba Zongo was hid­den in a truck to overtake and distance the pack before eventually winning on the line. This story just showed how important this new competition was for the people of Burkina, without however jeopard­izing the future of the event. After all, the first editions of the Tour de France also had some rid­ers who enjoyed trains, while the first winner of the Olympic marathon, Spiridon Louis, seemed to have covered a part of the 42 km on a cart!

The immediate next year, the Burkina riders made the best to bring glory and honour back to their na­tion. This time the pack was only bunched by Af­rican riders and indeed it was that continental su­premacy that was at first their main concern. Be­hind Mady Kaboré, a suc­cessor to Igor Luchenko for overall victory, the locals captured every single stage win and proved they were the strongest, especially against the Nigerians.

Random photos

Some random pictures


Recycle art


Neville doesn't understand the concept of glass.


Lovely restaurant we ate for our 10 year wedding annivarsary


Doghouse? Playhouse? ??


'Official 12th man' The Dutch football supporters are called 12th man to complete the 11 on the field.
Most common is Eto'o, Cameroonian star player (my favourite as well), also seen Sneijder (Dutch) Kaka and many others.


Lamb on a string, as the restaurants name suggest.
This is what we ate last night for Hazels birthday.

Culture

We actually left town. For Hazels birthday I took her to a sculpture park 30km outside Ouaga. When you leave Ouaga there is a toll booth, we paid 400 CFA (0.60 Euro 0.50 GBP) for there and back. The country is amazingly empty and flat. The road is mostly straight and, this part, pothole free.

The sculpturepark was an idea of government, basically they found a heap of stones and didn't know what to do. Invited international artist to have some fun and now charge people to see it. I admire the idea. As we found out the execution lacked the final finish.

We arrived at a huge newly made carpark, and we were the only ones. When we left there was another group, they were smart enough not to park in the carpark, but opposite in the shade.

The first ten meters of the path was well made with red gravel, but for the rest we had to find our own way. Good start, not so good finish. The fact that they left most building material just behind the entrance is not very inviting. We are hoping that our contribution of 1000 CFA each will be well spent. It is not as if they didn't have time, some stones were dated 2005.

One of the better ones.

Hazel found a snakeskin, wondering whether there are venomous snakes around. It was not that long, around 30 cm.

We made our way back to Ouaga to have lunch at Baratapas but found it closed. So we went to the american club. We didn't know what to expect, but it had more of a feeling of a local neighbourhood centre than an international club. The food was good though.

Tonight we (hopefully) will have another experience. Gigot a la ficelle (Leg of lamb on a string)

http://legigotalaficelle.skyrock.com/

Camping Ouaga

Found it on this weeks bikeride: The camping we stayed at 15 years ago, almost to the day.

Nothing changed, yet a lot changed.

The only way I could tell it was the camping was a sign at the entrance, for the rest it looked just like any other 'marquis'. A marquis is a pub in Burkina, basically a (outdoor) place with some tables and chairs and a fridge with a small selection of drinks. The owner (I presume) didn't let me take a picture. I could not see inside very well, so I don't know if the pool is there, or the sign 'no pissing in corners'.

Nothing changed: The sign has probably not been painted since, nor has the road been done. Therefor I assume that the camping is not longer functioning as camping.

A lot changed: The major Ouaga international truck stop is right next to the camping, I don't remember this, I think I would have noticed. It is a huge truckstop including checkpoints and whatever more belongs to it (I never get the logistics of these places). Right next to the truckstop is a 'market' with wood and metal workers and the camping is right at the back of this all; not what you would call a top spot.

For those who like to play with Google earth.


Big bit in the middle truckstop. To the left market and busstop. Top, right of the centre entrance to camping. Coordinates: 12°20'16.77"N 1°30'37.79"W.

Bike ride

I went for a cycle tour while Hazel was at her tea, sorry, ART club. I decided to go of road and try to avoid the main roads, after all it is a 'nearly all terrain bike' . So a tour round the airport. A few things struck me.

- What are they using goat tails and (I assume goat) leather pieces for? Looks a bit bush doctor to me.
- Shortcuts are longer as you have to dodge all the potholes.
- Don't be afraid of mud.
- People are friendly; no 'Mzungu' but 'bon jour' and 'mon ami', all with a friendly smile. Makes me smile.
- The bike is faster then I thought (if the GPS is correct) an average speed of 20 k/h is not bad considering the route. A stretch of 30+ k/h.
- I am well out of shape, but I blame the 32 degrees C and 60 humidity.


My new bike

Conclusion: Great fun, as long as you can jump in the pool after.